Friday, April 30, 2010

Musings on Vanilla

Vanilla is easily the most underrated of flavors. It has almost become synonymous with plain, or even worse, boring. Anyone who has had a really good vanilla ice cream, or wondered what gave so many desserts (even those not explicitly vanilla flavored) that extra layer of complexity in flavor, will come to appreciate the gifts of this most unappreciated of flavors.

The home baker usually doesn't have the chance to improve this opinion either. For years, I, like most people, had a vanilla extract in my kitchen that looked something like this:



Or, maybe if you were lucky, this:



You've all tasted this stuff, right? If not, go in your pantry and do it. I'll wait.

Horrible. Absolutely horrible. Vanilla as a flavor may have the reputation of being boring, but whatever is in those unassuming little bottles is just disgusting. I've known this for a long time, and yet year after year I continued to add it to countless recipes I made growing up. Of the two aforementioned options, I figured the real extract must be the superior option, but after that, all real extracts must be the same. WRONG.

I've found the good stuff. Remember these words: Nielsen-Massey Pure Madagascar Bourbon Vanilla. It's a little pricey compared to its more common counterpart, and you might have to venture past your usual grocery store to find it. At Whole Foods it costs around $10 for an 8 oz. bottle, but oh boy is it worth it. And while 8 oz. might not sound like a lot, for something that you're only using by the teaspoon or tablespoonful, it really does last a while. I'd be surprised if you used $0.50 worth at any given time.



This vanilla tastes like, well, vanilla. That's really the only way to put it. Added to recipes, it adds a richness and a depth of aroma that home-baked goods aspire to. I am now an orthodox member of the church of good vanilla, and I am evangelical about converting you to the same.

Vanilla extract is called for in so many recipes. But since it is the focus of this post, I want to give you a recipe where it will really shine: vanilla buttercream. While you will undoubtedly notice a difference in other baked goods, I think that a good buttercream unabashedly showcases the virtues of a good vanilla extract. With essentially just butter and sugar as the primary ingredients, what you taste is the vanilla.

This buttercream can be used on any dessert you see fitting, really. It is rich, aromatic, smooth, and far from diet friendly. Salt and lemon juice may seem like strange additions, but let me assure you. In this buttercream, they are magical. The result is neither salty nor lemony. Rather these ingredients take this buttercream far from the cloying sweetness of so many other frostings, and make it far too tempting to eat simply by the spoonful. If you insist on having a non-spoon vehicle for your buttercream, go right ahead. It works beautifully spread simply on cakes, or piped decoratively onto cupcakes. My only word of caution is that as written, the recipe does not produce a buttercream thick enough for piping roses or other similarly delicate adornments. If this is what you are wanting, I would either lessen the liquid ingredients, or add additional sugar to thicken it up.

Vanilla Buttercream
Adapted from Demolition Desserts

While I must insist that you try this recipe in its pure vanilla incarnation, it is a great foundation for other buttercream flavors as well. You can add other flavor extracts (although I would keep a little vanilla in there, no matter the flavor), or cocoa powder, or flaked coconut... the possibilities are endless.

Prep time: 10 min.
Cook time: N/A

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients:
4 oz unsalted butter at room temperature
2.5 cups powdered sugar
½ tsp kosher salt
1 Tbsp + 1 tsp whole milk
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp fresh lemon juice (original calls for 1 tsp)

In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream butter and salt together for 30 seconds.

Add half the powdered sugar, and all of the milk to the butter/salt mixture and beat until combined.

Scrape sides of the bowl. Add remaining powdered sugar, vanilla, and lemon juice. Beat until combined.

Scrape sides of the bowl. Beat on high speed for 5-6 minutes or until buttercream is fluffy.

Stir thoroughly before use to get rid of air bubbles.

Best if used the same day, but can be kept tightly wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or at room temperature overnight. Beat on high for a few minutes if kept in the refrigerator before use to regain fluffy texture.

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